Buying a Second-Hand Surfboard in Australia (Beginner-Friendly Longboard Guide from Port Macquarie)
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1) Why a Used Longboard Is the Best Step-Up from a Foamie (for Easy NSW Waves)
Coming off a soft-top and moving to your first hard-top longboard is the most natural jump when you surf easy waves like we get around Port Macquarie. A longboard gives you easy paddling, early take-offs, and plenty of forgiveness while you dial in the basics. I’m right there myself: most of my surfs in Port Mac are on friendly peaks, and that foamie I bought off my cousin “helped me understand and learn.” Now I want to step up, and with about 600 AUD I’m aiming for a used longboard that lets me progress without overcomplicating things.
Why buy used? Because for the same money you’ll get better construction (PU or epoxy) and more suitable dimensions than a bargain-bin new soft-top. A well-kept used longboard also holds value: if you upgrade in 6–12 months, it’s relatively easy to resell with minimal loss. For learners like us, look for a stable log (9’0–9’6, generous width) with enough volume to paddle without drama. The bonus with longboards in mellow NSW surf is you’ll learn to trim and walk the board instead of fighting to create speed.
I’m planning to buy through Surfboard Broker Australia, where I know Chad and can pick up in store. That human chat matters: someone who’ll tell you if the board is dry, whether the stringer is straight, or if a ding has been properly repaired. Used buying rewards conversation—ask questions, handle the board, and if you can, see it in person.
Quick wins
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Used longboard = more litres per dollar than a new soft-top.
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Perfect for easy waves: earlier entries and steady lines.
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Talk to the shop (in my case, Chad) and confirm real condition before you pay.
2) Price Reality Check: Can You Get a Good Longboard for ~$600 AUD?
Short answer: yes, but… set realistic expectations. Around ~$600 AUD you can find:
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PU longboards with years on them but structurally sound; expect yellowing and normal pressure dents.
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Epoxy at this price is rarer, though you’ll occasionally spot one with cosmetic scuffs or sanding marks.
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9’0–9’2 are usually more attainable than pristine 9’6 sticks.
In and around Port Mac, the market moves quickly. If you’re hard-capped at $300, it might take longer to land the right board. I treat $500 as the base and allow $750–$900 flex if the board is genuinely solid (good glass, straight stringer, healthy fin box, no delam). Paying a little more now can save you repairs later. And with pick-up, you skip shipping costs (which on longboards can chew $80–$150+ depending on pack-up and distance).
Where to squeeze value
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Consignment stock often allows a reasonable offer.
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Boards with small dings that are properly repaired (ask: epoxy or polyester? who repaired?).
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Less “hyped” models (classic single fin) compared to popular 2+1s.
My pocket rule (at this budget)
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Prioritise sound structure + ugly cosmetics over “pretty outside, dodgy inside.”
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Keep $50–$100 aside for extras: fin, leash, wax, and minor touch-ups.
3) Size & Volume Made Simple: How to Pick Your First Hard-Top Longboard
Without your exact height/weight, here’s a safe learner range for longboards in easy waves:
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Length: 9’0–9’2 (more manoeuvrable) or 9’2–9’6 (easier take-offs and glide).
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Width: about 22 ½”–23 ¼” for a stable platform.
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Thickness: about 2 ⅞”–3 ⅛”.
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Volume: typically 70–85 litres for an average learner (lean towards 85 L if paddling feels hard or you’re heavier).
Set-up
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Single fin (9”–10”) = classic feel and clean trim lines.
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2+1 (centre + side bites) = slightly easier starts and tighter turns.
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PU vs epoxy: PU has that classic glide; epoxy tends to be lighter and more ding-resistant—handy if you’re hauling it about.
Moving from foam to a hard-top, I noticed the momentum of a well-volumed longboard forgives wobbly timing but demands clearer back-foot engagement when you turn. In Port Mac’s mellow days, I like 9’2–9’4 with a 2+1 for stability plus a bit of pivot when the section asks. If you’re lighter and nimble, a 9’0 can feel playful; if paddling is a chore, bump up to 9’4–9’6.
Filter shortcut
Browsing online (e.g., with Chad at SFB), set Length 9’0–9’6, Volume 70–85 L, Price ≤$600. If something sits slightly outside but looks right, ask for actual litres (not every listing shows it).
4) Inspection Checklist: What to Look For (and What to Avoid) in a Second-Hand Board
Before you pay, run this in-person check (or ask for detailed photos/video):
Structure
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Straight stringer (sight down from nose to tail).
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Delamination: puffy/soft areas when pressed. Avoid if it’s extensive.
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Waterlogging: suspiciously heavy weight; dull thud when you tap with your knuckles.
Deck & bottom
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Pressure dents on the deck are normal on used boards; fine if there are no open cracks.
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Cracks in glass: distinguish light cosmetic crazing from deep fractures that can let water in.
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Repairs: look for clear, tidy patches; ask what resin was used.
Fins & boxes
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Single fin box: no wobbles or splits.
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FCS/Futures (if 2+1): tabs/boxes tight and clean.
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Fin included? If not, budget $60–$120.
Nose & tail
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Dings are common; if professionally repaired, no worries.
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On longboards, check tail block corners and stringer join.
I’ve learnt not to buy blind. The foamie was easy because it was family; now that I’m levelling up, I want hands-on. In store I’ll stand it up, sight the lines, and run my hand over repairs. If Chad says “it’s dry and ready,” I still ask for history (ever taken on water? consignment?). Five extra questions today beat a delam tomorrow.
5) Where to Buy in Australia: Local Shops vs Online (and How Pick-Up Saves You)
Real-world options:
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Local shop / consignment (my plan with Surfboard Broker Australia and pick-up): see and handle the board, maybe negotiate a touch, and skip shipping risk and cost.
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Online shops shipping AU-wide: big catalogues with filters for length/volume; great if you need something specific.
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Marketplace/Gumtree: occasional bargains, but wider variance in true condition and fewer guarantees.
Because I’m in Port Macquarie, I prefer pick-up. Longboards need careful packaging and handling; knowing Chad and the range of new and used in store, the maths works: I can try a few, confirm condition, and leave stoked. If you can’t visit, ask for a slow video walk-around (deck, bottom, close-ups of repairs and fin box) and a clear shipping damage policy.
Trust signals you can feel
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Visible address and phone, written conditions on returns/defects.
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Original photos (not just stock).
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Listing mentions actual volume, resin type, and repairs.
6) Using Filters (Length, Volume, Price) to Find the Right Board Faster
Filters are your best mate for cutting the noise. My typical flow:
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Filter to Longboards and Length: 9’0–9’6.
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Volume: tick 70–85 L for learner forgiveness.
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Price: cap ≤$900 to catch reasonable stretch options.
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Availability: show in stock only.
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Sort by price (low to high), then re-sort by newest to see fresh arrivals.
I shortlist 3–5 and fire off specifics:
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“Is the fin included?”
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“Was the last repair epoxy or polyester?”
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“Approx weight?” (handy for sniffing out water inside).
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“Can I pick up tomorrow?” (Port Mac makes that feasible for me).
With Chad I keep it straight: “I’m after a 9’2–9’4 longboard, 2+1, stable for easy waves. I’m coming off a foamie and have $600; happy to stretch to $750–$800 if it’s structurally mint.” That honesty speeds things up.
7) Hidden Costs & Negotiation: Fins, Leash, Repairs, Delivery vs In-Store Pick-Up
Typical extras
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Fins: $60–$120 (single) or $90–$160 (2+1 set).
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Leash 9’–10’: $40–$60.
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Wax + small accessories: $15–$40.
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Minor repairs: $40–$120 depending on the job and resin.
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Shipping a longboard: $80–$150+—another reason pick-up is gold.
Clean negotiation
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Arrive with observations (“normal deck pressures and a repaired tail ding; no delam. Would you do $320 with a fin?”).
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Offer immediate payment and in-store pick-up.
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If there’s no fin, ask for a price drop or a bundle (board + leash).
I try not to haggle for sport: if the price is fair and saves me future fixes, I pay and lock in a trustworthy board. Shops like SFB value clear, repeat customers; being reasonable today makes you the first call when a sweet 9’4 lands tomorrow.
8) Set-Up & First Session Tips for Port Macquarie’s Easy Waves
First-day checklist:
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Fin: start mid-box; if it slides out, move it back a touch; if turns feel sluggish, nudge it forward.
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Leash: 9’–10’, tied clean with a proper rail saver.
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Wax: basecoat + topcoat suited to NSW temps.
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Take-off: lie half a hand further forward than on your foamie; the longboard floats more and lifts in earlier.
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Lines: aim down-the-line with calm trims; prioritise reading the section over forcing turns.
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Spots: around Port Mac, start on gentle banks (e.g., Town Beach on small days) and avoid heavy crowds.
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Care: rinse with fresh water, dry properly, and check for dings after each surf.
I’m taking it step by step: early sessions just to get acquainted, then small cross-steps, and eventually a cheeky cheater five when the section allows. No rush—the longboard rewards calm timing.
Conclusion
Buying a used longboard in Australia with $300 is doable if you play it smart: define length/volume, use filters, prioritise pick-up, inspect methodically, and accept cosmetic wear in exchange for sound structure. For me in Port Macquarie, with Chad at Surfboard Broker Australia, I’m targeting 9’2–9’4, 2+1, roughly 70–85 litres, aiming for $300 and ready to stretch to $350–$400 if condition justifies it. That mix lets me step up from a foamie while still loving those easy days.
FAQs
Can I learn noseriding on $600?
Yes—if the board is structurally sound with a suitable single or 2+1. Nail paddling and positioning first; noseriding comes once your trim is steady.
PU or epoxy for beginners?
Both work. Epoxy often shrugs off dings and weight better; PU gives classic feel. Condition matters more than material at this price.
Which dings are “no-go”?
Big delaminations, loose fin boxes, or obvious water ingress. Minor, well-done repairs are fine.
Are fins included?
Sometimes. If not, budget $60–$120 or negotiate a bundle.
Why pick-up?
Avoid shipping cost and damage risk, and you get to handle the board to confirm condition.